NP-231 Fun

[ArkansasBlaZeR2]

I actually just tried it.... And it works PERFECTLY!!!!!

I'll try to get some pics up quickly.

[HenryJ]

Originally posted by ArkansasBlaZeR2@Aug 29 2007, 09:37 PM
it works PERFECTLY!!!!!

[ArkansasBlaZeR2]

Here is where I spliced into the Grey/Black wire on the PCM. (Note: wiring is for display purposes and is temporary):



This is the wire from the PCM is connected the the yellow wire in the switch. The Black wire is grounded to the body ( not shown in the pic)



And it works just like it should!

Brule thanks for all your help!

[HenryJ]

You are welcome. I am just glad it worked.
Glad you pointed out the stock switch. I did not have one of those shifters in my possession long enough to remember all the parts. I hoped there was something that might work.
Thanks for jumping through all the hoops to make this work!

[Kristian]

Ok so it looks like the tailshaft sensor wire is actually part of the 4L60E Automatic Transmission harness. Right above the tailshaft of the transmission there is a oem connection between the 236 autocrap harness and the 4l60E transmission harness.

That makes alot of sense. The 2wd would not have a tcase sensor and would pick up speed from someplace else. Its only logical that the speed sensor is not part of the 236 harness.

The wire color is Purple (white stripe) and Lime Green (BLACK stripe)

Jeremy didnt you say the lime green wire had a white stripe also?

[Kristian]

Originally posted by Miles@Aug 9 2007, 06:36 PM
I hate to say this....and I feel like an idiot.....but ya lost me there! I know that the VSS that's currently in the tail shaft of the 231 has one light green wire with a black stripe, and one purple wire with a white stripe.

Looks like im right...

[Miles]

Yeah man, I couldn't remember earlier today when you called. I was in my cooling down period after wrestling with that friggin top right transfer case bolt for an hour! Good thing we document stuff on this website though! :thumbsup:

Originally posted by Miles@Aug 8 2007, 05:08 PM
Mike is gonna re-wire it tonight. Justin confirmed that his transmission does NOT shift in 4LO either. Wiring in the correct VSS is paramount though for the speedometer to work, as well as for the transmission to shift in 2WD or 4HI. The other Autotrac sensors DO need to be plugged back in to their factory harness, and just tied up out of the way. This will complete the circuit for the transmission to shift correctly in 4LO. The encoder motor, however, does NOT need to be wired up, because it is on a totally separate circuit from the transmission, and is no longer utilized.

Still working on the center console install. I'm having to re-work the rear console mount, because of the Bose amplifier that is under my factory console. Yet another PITA...

Here's a few pics of the 231 installed:

hey i have the same problem... i swapped my 233 to floor shift and transmission dont shift in 4lo... the only diference is taht i have not autotrac*

can you tell me what cables should be connected or grounded ???

how can i do to fix my problem???

thanks!

[Miles]

Welcome to the site!

Read a few posts up for the answer.

yeah i have read it...

but my zr2 is 1994 and the PCM isnt like that...

its in the cab, in the passenger kick panel..

and it hasnt a grey/black cable... :huh:

can you tell me what is the equivalent cable in my truck??

and thanks for the welcome!!!

[Miles]

Someone like Brule will have to look up the wiring diagrams for your year model to figure that out. You have the 4L60E, so it's going to be the same deal. Just need to figure out the wire to tap into.

Oh, be sure to introduce yourself and your rig in the new members section!

and how can i do to contact Brules ans ask him to check out my year diagram??

realy thanks for helping me!

[HenryJ]

I am not going to be much help. I don't have the schematics for a '94 It is a "tween" year , add to that an export model and it may be a difficult egg to crack.

Ours has three control modules. The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) in the engine compartment. The BCM (Body control Manual)under the dash and the TCM (Transfercase control module) in the right side kick panel.

I do not know where your PCM is located, or if the kick panel module is both.

Your best bet will be to get your hands on a factory service manual. Helminc.com

Be prepared it will be $65 US. from there see if you can find the right trail to follow what has been done in this thread for the later model years.

[Kristian]

Jeremy, Do you have any pics of the trimming you did to fix the center console? Any pics of the hole you drilled to install the cable?

Im going to try to put mine in tomorrow finally. Sick and tired of having to shift the 231 on my back in the dirt.

[Kristian]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=390018200515

[Kevin S]

Jeremy, if you don't mind my asking, how much do you have into this swap? I ask because I think I might start gathering parts to do this. I am just so fed up and sick of my Autotrac constantly having problems. Its just one thing after another.

[Miles]

About $300. It's really going to depend on how good of a deal you can find on the parts.

[Kristian]

Originally Posted by Kevin S

if you don't mind my asking, how much do you have into this swap?

Tcase: $100
Console/shifter: $100
Professional Dying of console $100
Bracket: Free
Hardware $25
2wd 4x4 Delete plate $15
Seals and silicon: $15

I also had to purchase a right angle drill at a cost of $150
I also purchased some different drill bits, a hole saw and a sanding drum.

Keep in-mind though, once you complete the swap you can sell your 236, 4x4 selector switch, TCCM, Shift motor and stock center console.

[Kevin S]

Originally Posted by Miles

About $300. It's really going to depend on how good of a deal you can find on the parts.

That is not bad. I found a few pretty close to me. In fact one of them is right here, has 94,000 miles but they want $175 for it. Another one is about 20 minutes from me and they want $150 I believe.

Based on what you two have told me, that seems a bit steep although it could just be due to area.

Originally Posted by DarkBlueBlaZeR2

Tcase: $100
Keep in-mind though, once you complete the swap you can sell your 236, 4x4 selector switch, TCCM, Shift motor and stock center console.

Yea, but who wants a 236? Seriously though I forgot about that. That should help offset it a bit.

Thanks Guys!

[Miles]

You'd be surprised on the 236 man! I sold mine to some dude in NY (ZR2USA member). I did basically give it to him for the shipping costs...about $75. It helped him out, so I didn't care. Was tired of tripping over it!

BTW, I paid $200 for my 1995 NP231. The remaining parts took MONTHS to round up, but did not exceed $100 IIRC.

[Kristian]

Finished mounting up the shifter and connecting the linkage yesterday. It was really nice to finally be able to shift through the gears from the comfort of the drives seat. I probably played with it for 10 minutes. shift-shift-shift-shift.

As for the mounting I found some thick rubber washers at ACE that I used ont he mounting hardware for the shifter bracked. I wanted something to seal the holes and it turned out nice.

Still need to run the wires over to the TCCM harness and tap into that sig wire and a ground... picked up the wire and such just need to find the time.

Console fit is just about perfect, just need to mod the rear bracket and It should be done.

[Jeff]

honestly I sometimes wish I had a 236 in my truck. Driving in partially snow covered roads it would come in very handy. I'm just not motivated that much to look into swapping it in my truck.

[Miles]

I didn't really care for the Autotrac's function. It kicks in when it senses rear tire slippage. Kinda unpredictable IMO, and that's not what I want on icy/snowy roads. With this, I KNOW what to expect when I shift to 4WD.

[Kristian]

I dont know I always loved the auto 4x4 function. I used it a ton here in CO snow and it was great...

Having said that about 70%+ of the the threads in the drivetrain section of usa are about electronic 4x4 problems.

[Miles]

Originally Posted by DarkBlueBlaZeR2

Having said that about 70%+ of the the threads in the drivetrain section of usa are about electronic 4x4 problems.

Exactly. Unreliable & unpredictable. With the 231, I KNOW that when I pull that lever, I'm 100% engaged.

[Kevin S]

Originally Posted by Miles

Exactly. Unreliable & unpredictable. With the 231, I KNOW that when I pull that lever, I'm 100% engaged.

And that is exactly what I want. IMO Simple = better. I would much rather just pull a lever and know rather than have to just push a button. The 233 and 236 just have so many things that can easily go wrong with them. And it seems to me, from my own experience, that it fails at the worst possible time - right when you need it to work!

After I pay for next semesters books I hope to get some $$ and start gathering the parts for the swap. Then maybe I can get it done in the beginning of March. My plan is to run a 231 with a Bravada shaft. I think I should be golden then. But thats all for another thread. I don't mean to hijack Jeremy's.

I think it should be a fairly easy swap overall. I am not a super experienced or skilled wrench by any means, but I'm young, still learning and pretty mechanically inclined. The best way I learn is by doing. I am confident I could manage this swap - especially after people like Jeremy and Justin have done this and posted their research. It sure does make it a lot easier for people like me

[Kristian]

I have a small setback. I have TWO Grey/Black wires at my TCCM connector. On the top row they are pins 4&7.

I need to know which pin of the 236 TCCM is "4x4 Low Signal?"

Also, are any of the 236 TCCM wires ground? I see some black/white stripe wires but I do not see any solid black wires...

[Kristian]

Originally Posted by HenryJ

NVG 233 Two speed selectable: Top row C, bottom row D

C1 GRY/BLK 4wd low signal
C2 not used
C3 DK GRN/WHT 4 lo switch signal
C4 DK GRN/WHT 2 hi switch signal
C5 GRY/BLK 2 hi switch signal
C6 ORN Battery Positive voltage
C7 not used
C8 BRN Ignition 3 voltage
C9 BLK/WHT Encoder signal ground
C10 BLK Ground
C11 LT GRN/BLK 2 hi indicator control
C12 TAN/BLK 4 hi indicator control
C13 not used
C14 PPL/WHT 4 lo indicator control
C15 not used
C16 BLK motor A control

D1 RED Motor B control
D2 LT GRN/BLK A/T Shift Lock Control Switch Supply Voltage
D3 ORN Diagnostic enable
D4 BRN/WHT Channel P encoder Signal
D5 RED/WHT Channel C encoder Signal
D6 DK BLU/WHT Channel A encoder Signal
D7 YEL/BLK Channel B encoder Signal
D8 DK GRN/WHT Vehicle Speed Signal
D9 , D10, D11 not used
D12 BLK Ground
D13 BLK Ground
D14 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
D15 ORN Battery Positive Voltage
D16 PPL Crank Voltage

NVG 236/246 Two Speed Automatic: Top row E , Bottom row F

E1 TAN Lock solenoid control
E2 not used
E3 PNK AWD Indicator control
E4 LT GRN/BLK 2 hi Indicator control
E5 BRN/WHT Channel P encoder signal
E6 RED/WHT Channel C encoder signal
E7 YEL/BLK Channel B Encoder signal
E8 DK BLU/WHT Channel A encoder signal
E9 DK GRN/WHT ATC Class 2 serial data
E10 BRN Ignition 3 voltage
E11 PPL Crank Voltage
E12 YEL Signal high front
E13 PPL Signal low front
E14 BLK/WHT Axle switch signal
E15 not used
E16 BLK/WHT ground

F1 PPL/WHT 4 lo indicator control
F2 TAN/BLK 4 hi indicator control
F3 BRN Neutral indicator control
F4 GRY/BLK Axle actuator control
F5 LT BLU Signal hi rear
F6 DK GRN Signal low rear
F7 GRY/BLK 4wd low signal
F8 , F9, F10, F11 not used
F12 BLK/WHT Encoder signal ground
F13 LT GRN/BLK 8 volt reference
F14 LT GRN/BLK 8 volt reference
F15 not used
F16 LT BLU Switch signal

EDIT: Just hooked up the switch and the rows are reversed, on the 236 TCCM, from what they are listed here.

-The sig wire (Grey/black stripe) was @ pin7 but its on the top row.
-Ground (black/white stripe) was @ pin 16 but on the bottom row.

[TrailTamer]

hey, this is Brett, from zr2usa.com and i want to drop in and add in my experinces

the transfer case i had is np-236 just as Miles and it was junk due to the chain got stretched enough to jump the sprockets

swapped it out and its almost plug and play for me. the wire connector wasnt cut on my transfer case so i plainly just plug and go. i also pulled ATC and 4WD fuses then the entire 4x4 lights went out, dont bother me at all so i dont need to do any wiring or pulling bulb job behind the dashboard

my aluminum skid plate dont need any trimming to make it fit, it went right on, it seem like your is bent upward or some other reason its like that.

i will need to do that grounding the wire for 4x4 low

what i didnt get in my package from the junk yard that you have that bracket bars while i dont. i really cant understand why need that while the stock np-236 didnt have any of that brackets but i might can try to find some so have more strength

i and my bud was able to get the t-case swapped by just unbolt and pull the t/c directly back out then drop the front down then it came right out! it may just because i had 2 inch body lift

what issues im having right now that i have floor shifter for the auto and floor shifter for the t/c, there's no such a center console for that kind of stuff, so im considering on a custom made center console with a diamond plates, etc and nice light switch plate on there too! haha

nice to have all useful info on here to help me further in this swap!

[Miles]

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

hey, this is Brett, from zr2usa.com and i want to drop in and add in my experiences
the transfer case i had is np-236 just as Miles and it was junk due to the chain got stretched enough to jump the sprockets

swapped it out and its almost plug and play for me. the wire connector wasnt cut on my transfer case so i plainly just plug and go. i also pulled ATC and 4WD fuses then the entire 4x4 lights went out, dont bother me at all so i dont need to do any wiring or pulling bulb job behind the dashboard

Did you pull these fuses from the drivers side fender, or the side of the dash by the drivers side door? Very good tip!

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

my aluminum skid plate dont need any trimming to make it fit, it went right on, it seem like your is bent upward or some other reason its like that.

What year & model did you pull your aluminum skid from? Mine was from a 1995 4-door Blazer.

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

i will need to do that grounding the wire for 4x4 low

what i didnt get in my package from the junk yard that you have that bracket bars while i dont. i really cant understand why need that while the stock np-236 didnt have any of that brackets but i might can try to find some so have more strength

The only support rod that you will benefit from is the one on the drivers side that supports the input shaft of the x-case. It's just reinforcement. Since I like additional strength anywhere I can find it, I made this work. Just had to trim one aluminum "ear" off of the transmission, because it was right in the way of the transmission bolt that the support rod needed to attach to. I also had to buy a longer metric bolt from Napa (4.5"s) to fit the rod where it went into the back of the motor/tranny bolt hole.

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

i and my bud was able to get the t-case swapped by just unbolt and pull the t/c directly back out then drop the front down then it came right out! it may just because i had 2 inch body lift

The body lift would have made it much easier to get that 236 out.

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

what issues im having right now that i have floor shifter for the auto and floor shifter for the t/c, there's no such a center console for that kind of stuff, so im considering on a custom made center console with a diamond plates, etc and nice light switch plate on there too! haha

nice to have all useful info on here to help me further in this swap!

Could you post some pics of your floor shifters, as it sits right now? I have a plan to either have the two floor shifter consoles molded together....or something else altogether. However, after studying pics of both floor shifters, I came to the conclusion that they would have to overlap, since it appeared to me that they both shared the same two bolts in the floor pan in the middle. Pics of what you did would be great!

[TrailTamer]

i pulled the fuse from the underhood fuseblock thats labeled "ATC" which is ab. for auto trasnfer-case and other one on the side of the dashboard thats labeled "4WD"

i have no idea what the skid plate mine came off, i bought it off beedle4's hand on zr2usa.com

im gonna clean both my center console really good, while im thre i will snap a few pic for comparism. and yes both shifters share the same 2 stud bolts.

another thing i find when i did this swap that there's even already a dent made in the floor for the shifter assembly so all i need to find right size bolt n drillbit then i just drill n bolt it up, includes the hole for the shifter cable too! the bad is the spot's SOOO tight, but we did it.

im not sure if i should find a professional to mold both center console together or custom make a center console with diamond plates, etc to make it work, also at that, make a nicccee light switch plate there then i finally have a place to put light switch, winch switch, E-locker button, some other odds as well

[Kristian]

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

i really can't understand why I would need the brackets if the stock np-236 doesn't have them

The 236 tail shaft is MUCH stronger... Just look at the 231 and then look at the 236. That being said, lots of people run the 231 and dont use the brackets.

[Miles]

Originally Posted by TrailTamer

im not sure if i should find a professional to mold both center console together or custom make a center console with diamond plates, etc to make it work, also at that, make a nicccee light switch plate there then i finally have a place to put light switch, winch switch, E-locker button, some other odds as well

I would suggest having them molded together professionally. That is going to be my plan anyway. Many benefits to also having a transmission floor shifter IMO. The closer you can keeping it to stock appearance, the better.

[TrailTamer]

Originally Posted by Miles

I would suggest having them molded together professionally. That is going to be my plan anyway. Many benefits to also having a transmission floor shifter IMO. The closer you can keeping it to stock appearance, the better.

can you explain why have them both molded together to keep it stock apperance is better?

also can u explain why floor transmission shifter is betteer over column shifter??

[Miles]

I feel that I have more control over the shifting of my transmission during sticky/intense situations off-road, by being able to simply pull or push the shifter selector to the desired gear. Otherwise, you're having to go through the "unnatural" motion of lifting the column shifter up or down during those same situations. Personally, I just makes more sense to me.

In regards to molding the stock consoles together, aesthetically, it just looks soooo much better. Nothing worse than seeing some one-off janky shifters sticking up in odd places, surrounded by one-off, home made consoles. "MOST".....(emphasis on the most) of the time, one-off custom made shifter consoles just end up looking like dooky. If you can keep it looking like it came that way from the factory, why not? Functionality does not change. Again, that's just my opinion. FWIW.

[TrailTamer]

good point, i might leave my transmission floor shifter in the place so i wont find myself i've lost something when i already done all of the work converts to column shifter

i called to a rag top/ interior professional locally and i will stop in to see what they can do

[TrailTamer]

i did the wiring work, i connected the F7 wire off the connector off the TCCM to the yellow wire off the shifter assembly and grounded the black wire coming off the shifter assembly. worked as wonder! so yes even with the fuses pulled, the grounding of this wire still works.

i just dropped my blazer off at that interior professinal shop to do their magic with the center consoles! they said should be done by this wed then it will be the time to whore the pics!

[Kristian]

[TrailTamer]

dumb question, but is there's a correct way to shift the transfer case in and out of the neutral? what im struggling that sometime i couldnt shift by park sitting (transmission in neutral) then i drive a little the snap it in neutral then try to shift in the neutral then into 4x4 low. im struggling to do this without grinding, any hints, whatsoever??

TIA

[Kristian]

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